I am Chinese food. I had no idea.
You Are Chinese Food |
“Do not let your fire go out, spark by irreplacable spark. In the hopeless swamps of the not quite, the not yet, and the not at all, do not let the hero in your soul perish and leave only frustration for the life you deserved, but never have been able to reach. The world you desire can be won, it exists, it is real, it is possible, it is yours.” —The Great Ayn Rand
You Are Chinese Food |
At that time Asher was a young man visiting producers all over Europe for a London importer. He was on his way to Verona and had just drunk a flowery white Fendant, a local wine of the Swiss Valais. At the Simpleton Pass he had the kind of mystical experience available only on roads (Saul of Tarsus being the model). First of all, the experience was a place: snow, wildflowers, the road to Domodossola, a midday sun, the inn. There was lunch, veal scallops, buttered noodles, and then the wine, a "light red wine poured from a pitcher." He tried to finger the Alpine grape varietal—Bonarda? Ruche? Brachetto?
"The wine was sweetly exotic: lively on the tongue, perfectly balanced, and with a long, glossy finish. It was the sort of wine that Omar Khayyam might have had in mind for his desert tryst. The young woman who had poured it for me was amused when I asked what it was. She said it was vino rosso."
Asher says that he has searched for that wine for thirty years and never found anything remotely like it, before admitting that perhaps it was he who "created" it in the first place. "But the pleasure in any wine is subjective: we each bring something to what is there in the glass and interpret the result differently."
Asher seems to be suggesting that place itself is twofold: on the one hand, it is terroir; on the other, it is what is going on around you as you are drinking. The first is geological, the second psychological. And taste was presumably a high-wire act balancing itself precariously between the two.
I wanted to find the geological spirit of place. Accordingly, I decided to travel to the remote Central Valley estate of Chalone, perched in the mountains called the Pinnacles above the hamlet of Soledad. It was reputed to be a "special place." A place where place was alive and mysteriously well. Did its wine, I wondered to myself, match its location?